Tie Rod will be installed along with a lower ball joint and upper control arm with new bushings and ball joint. This is a 2007 V6 EXL with 175k miles. The ball joint has 1/2 in movement up and down and tie rod can move and click.
Parts MOOG, 3 years 36 k miles RockAuto. Advance Auto loaner for pressing in ball joint. Parts with shipping under 100$ and 75% Made in USA.
Research – Chris Fix has good videos on Honda and pressing in the ball joint. I also looked at my other 3 favorites and a few new people. His upper was different and I may have to drop the strut to access.
- PENETRANT 24 hrs and 15 min before. (Chill Zone or Deep Freeze)
- Impact 1/2 corded or big lever (1/2 corded and 3/8 batt)
- Remove ABS line connector inside not at the hub. too risky to break it.
- Ziplock bag the ball joint and freeze. Helps when pressing
- Add grease to the press C clamp threads to help FLUSA Ceramic grease
- Preload Ie hand tight then preload the upper arm bushing
- Grease gun the Zerks as needed every oil change
- the lower ball joint has a relief in the rubber boot place away from the rotor.
- Flex head wrenches make life easy on Upper arm
- Remove upper arm nuts to lower the strut to access upper control arm bolts.
- Mark the TIE ROD NUT and measure vs the new tie rod to adjust to close as possible. Will need an alignment.
- Thread locker Med helps
- AXLE NUT will be a hard issue to overcome. may need oxy /acetylene heat.
Bushing PRELOAD – ADD tension before tighten any bushing bolt to spec. Use jack to raise lower control arm to when car lifts from jack stand. I found this reference point in the photo below.
The Ball Joint Tool from Harbor Freight works well. Ratchet flex for the upper control arm. Liberal use of Chill Zone and no need for power tools (except for Axle nut) Breaker bar 18 inch.
|MOOG||ES80287||Tie Rod End|
|Order Total||$ under 100|
Stop point is how to disconnect the ABS wire at the orange connector. It is hard to get under the hood
Trick- 2 push pins in the red diagram and the blue cover grommet. Once push pins are pushed in the Orange ABS connector can be disconnected. The ABS and VSA will be lit up on the dash but ok to drive you to have regular braking. Last resort is a sensor in the knuckle and they break usually.
Oh FUN, Everything day one went well, so well is oh well. Day 2 not so well. Axle nut is un-staked, penetrant for 2 days and No JOY. Upon searching I found many with this issue. Shout out to Mike of Mike and Norms Towing https://www.facebook.com/Mike-Norms-Towing-Inc-266621173373864/ for the loan of a real breaker bar and pipe at 3.5 feet. Plus another corded impact and still NO JOY. We tried a little heat via MAP Gas.
Day 3 removed the wheel and add map gas heat to 500 degrees and see if that works adding candle wax and 3 sets of heat and wax. If no joy then try oxy/act torch. Last resort Dremel tool and cut nut but be prepared to buy an axle. Taken 8 minutes a cycle to get to 500 with map. 500 is normal for a brake system in normal use. As others have found even a 5ft pipe on a 1/2 Snapp on 3-foot bar still will not break it loose.
DAY 4 – At Mike and Norms Towing. Mike was nice to let me use the Oxygen Acetylene torch and by heating the nut red and then Impact it broke loose. No penetrant ever made it into the threads. Then used the PowerBuilt kit 46 to partially press out the ball joint then hammer. I did freeze the ball joint overnight to make the pressing easier. All done no squeak. The ball joint was lifting almost out of the socket. The grease was like sandpaper.
Knuckle with new ball joint pressed in.