Typical Timing Belt setup with change out at 60k. Will need antifreeze, water pump, gasket, valve cover gasket, Idler, Tensioner, and Belt. Plus the AC, PS, WATER Belts. This is old and no video but there are videos that twill guide you. The Spectra 2006 is a SINGLE CAM Sprocket.

SPECTRA 2006 2.0 l Timing Belt, Idler , Tensioner, Water pump replace Skill 3 wrenches

Always get the best guide from

Check the forums for help.

Sephia/spectra Timing Belt How To – Kia Forum – The Organization for the Advancement of the Kia Import.

Hyundai owns KIA and shares engine and transmission design

Hyundai Forum: Hyundai Performance Forum

Book time is 6 hours. (if you did this a few times)

First time – give it 8-10 hours and things do go fubar, in my case a bad new water pump. Crack in casting found during leak test.

Summary – Remove all belts, remove power steering. Remove a lot of bolts so label and keep track. Tight space so relax. Think about tool placement. Stubbies help, and so do an assortment of extensions, a 3/8 and 1/2 inch torque wrench, and an impact wrench make life easy.

Trick one –

Tricks, really only 2.

1) Removing 4 10 mm bolts for the water pump pulley.

 by this point the motor mount is out of the way.

 Very tight clearance needs a wrench 10 mm

  I just lifted the engine up another 1/2 inch and my socket fit.

  A strap wrench can help hold the pulley 
Be Careful I use a corded 1/2 inch impact – 60$

2) Crank Shaft pulley removal.

 raining and my electric torque wrench not a good idea.

 this method worked for me.

 You need a clockwise turning engine, a 2 foot 1/2 breaker bar

 with socket.  First make sure car will not run. The starter is needed.

 I undid the connection to the coil pack. then verified care did not run.

 position the breaker bar with socket on to the crank shaft nut. Have the

 positioned to the left ready to be stopped by the lower wheel frame control

 arm. Then prop it with any thing on hand. Get away danger

 hit the starter for 1 second that should do it. ( Better to use an IMPACT WRENCH)

Re assemble but test with water first for the water pump, before you put the rest back. I had a crack in the water pump.

Nice a crack –

DO NOT RUN CAR UNTIL the TIMING COVER Bottom and Crank pulley is installed or risk belt coming off and damage.

Cylinder Head removal 2.0 liter / Timing / CVVT ONLY IF YOU SCREW UP AND BEND VALVES :O)

Skill 5 Wrenches

Special thanks to: Charlie the Head builder at NAPA Reisterstown MD Machine Shop 410 – 833 – 7833 Fast service, Nice Work. Been around for years. I have been made aware the local KIA/Hyundai dealers send head work to him.

George at Koons KIA Owings Mills MD , tracking down the OCV filter and head bolt washers real fast.



-Before removal of cams, Check the gap between cam lobes and MLA, ie shims.

record each, You must make sure when you reinstall the cams to recheck the gaps. reference – kiatechinfo search on MLA


You must have torque wrench, a Half Inch Impact wrench, crank puller

an the most important NEW BOLTS and a ANGLE INDICATOR for Torque.

I had a boo boo. Well some call it failure, I call it learning. I did not use the angle gauge to torque the head and did not interpret the correct procedure.

At 5 k miles developed an oil leak.

If the timing belt breaks or if it jumps it will do damage.

Usually 2 intake valves and guides at a minimum.

Use the guides on

Use- Intake, Exhaust, Timing, Cylinder Head, cooling SI titles

Special Tools:

1/2 inch & 3/8 torque wrenches

1 1/2 inch PVC pipe for CAM seal install

Impact Wrench , 2 inch finish nail bent in L shape or Allen key

Summary of Steps:

1-label and disconnect sensors (sticky labels and sharpie pens)

1-A (remove parts for timing)

2-hose removal all

3-remove intake manifold

4-remove exhaust manifold

5-remove valve cover

6-remove cylinder head

8-remove cams SEE WARNING – CHECK GAP in MLA before and after.

7- Sub out work to machine shop for valve, seals, and seats / cleaned

7 A – Set Crankshaft to TDC TOP DEAD CENTER CYLINDER 1

8- install cylinder head

9-install cams and timing ( will need effort to push a bit down) CHECK MLA GAPS.

10+ reverse 5-1

Be Organized, I use cup cake pans. all nuts, bolts, cam parts, etc.


Chain Tensioner for the Camshaft chain CCVT. The manual says

use pin to hold. It is a built in channel to put in a pin as shown.

CCVT set cam timing (from

In plain words. One side of the chain has two links a different color. These links line up with the timing marks on the sprocket. The photo will help.

I used CRC assembly lithium on the lobes and 30 wt oil on the lifters and cam caps.

Get rid of the carbon on the pistons. Use carb cleaner. let sit a bit, keep rubbing.

Use only a popsicle stick, carb cleaner, and a plastic card to scrape the block clean. Make your own thread chaser / cleaner. all block bolts need to be clean. The TTY Torque to Yield bolts have to be replaced. Use 2 old (#10,#12) and put two slots from the bottom up about 2 inches with a rotary tool with cutter wheel. Sand to remove burrs and wash clean. Use a shop vac to vacuum the cylinders and thread holes. I wipe down the cylinder walls with WD-40 and then a bit of ATF on walls only.

Do not use scrub pads, metal tools on the block .

Head Gasket up or Down. It makes a difference. Verify by mfg stamp and verify the top and bottom gasket. One side has different openings then the other. The other way to tell is to look at the residue left from (A / B) in photo above.

Everything back ( intake manifold, Fuel rail, new O rings for injectors, Exhaust manifold) except for timing and Valve covers. New thermostat and gaskets for water intake. New denso Platinum plugs.


TIMING – Never turn engine over till the timing cover is back on. If the belt comes off you will do damage to the valves even at idle.

Valve cover on, Timing belt on, last cover to replace. Then the 3 accessory belts.

Turn over with starter only an few 5 sec bursts to get oil circulating.

Test over a couple of heat up and cool down sequences. make sure all gaskets are good and now cooling leaks. Pay attention to sounds etc.

Do a loop of highway and city driving. At around 100 miles replace oil and filter, and cooling fluid.

No OBD II CODES, No issues, no coolant leaks. The magic of torque wrench and specifications.

But a high pitch chirping noise from the assoc belt side. When AC is on Chirps less or not at all. A look at the A/C belt tensioner has a center nut and an adjustment bolt. The adjustment bolt fits in a ” U ” shaped cut. Put a socket on it and pull towards the outside while tightening the center nut, else it will skew and hit the metal support causing the chirping sound. see pic below

BETA II 2.0 Liter Engine G4GC

Everything plastic that was removed was washed with LA Awesome Butyl cleaner at the $$ store, and then dawn dish soap.

How Much:

Gaskets( 100) , Head work (360$) , Bolts, o rings, ocv filter ($100) belts assoc. timing water pump (160), total $720 for a brand new engine top end.

Labor free. me. Learning experience priceless.

Special Tools:

  • Camshaft Seal install tool
  • Thread Chaser – Thanks to many on the web for this. Just cut 2 slots up the threads. Vac out bolt hole, use carb cleaner and wd 40, insert chaser, repeat 3 times then vac. should be real smooth.

THE BOO BOO or lessons learned:

An angle gauge is need to torque the head bolts

the cost between 6 and 10 $ at Autozone or others.

Always use new head bolts.

the manual calls for the following:

Head bolts

10 — to 18 lbs ~ (60 to 65) + ~ (60 to 65)

12 — to 22 lbs ~ (60 to 65) + ~ (60 to 65)

What are they really telling you:

Old school was to tighten to spec then retighten 100 miles later

NOW: with tighter specs, Iron block to Aluminum head

ALWAYS follow the KIA manual for the removal sequence and installation sequence since they are different.


1- Start at hand tighten using correct sequence per spec Always check spec n ot what I write.

2- Start at number 1 bolt in sequence and torque to 18lbs for (#10 bolts)

3- the two big bolts are (#12) and require 22lbs.


4-Start at number 1 bolt on sequence and use Torque Angle Gauge and turn 60 to 65 degrees (1/6 turn) go through the sequence


5-Start at number 1 bolt on the sequence and use Torque Angle Gauge and turn 60 to 65 degrees (1/6 turn) go through the sequence.

Then trying a short cut….(don’t they always result in the long way ;o)

I was off one tooth on the timing since I did not do the complete sequence of setting TDC, then exhaust cam then intake cam. OBD II code P0016 pending then full code usually means 1 tooth off and it was when I redid the timing sequence.

Redid timing sequence no code.

Now road testing…..

I developed and oil leak and it was because I took a 9$ short cut.

I took the head off and replace the 3 gaskets. This time took less time and I could do it from memory except for torque specs. I replaced the gasket, added copper spray 3 light coats both sides and the new bolts. oil and coolant fluids were flushed.